Istanbul

ooooops, a little late

I am still here, in Macedonia, trying to look busy. Got my coffee on, the sun is shinning in, warming my skin and feeding me. It is going to be another beautiful day.

Yes, my trip to Istanbul was a while back, the end of August. We went during Byram, the end of Ramadan. It was crazy crowded which took away some of the mystique. My favorite … the Chemberlitas Hamami, was quiet, peaceful, relaxing and refreshing. My second favorite “what to see and do” was the Basilica Cistern which was initially built around the 3rd and 4th centuries and has two carved Medusa heads back in the depths of this eery, mystical and cavernous palace. Other things we saw and did: Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Hippodrome of Constantinople, a ferry tour up the Bosphorus, hung out in Taksim and watched a Kurdish peaceful protest, ate a fish sandwich off a boat, ate more fresh seafood and bought a lot of trinkets.

I would go again to see more of Turkey, off-season. There were more people than I care to try to navigate through again.

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Enjoy the pictures, they are in no particular order … more to come of other travels and adventures, just had to get these out to you first. Miss you all.

the 3rd time is a charm

or was it 4 ?

Last weekend was momentous, mountainous … I have tried a few times to do a day hike to Tumba peak on the Belasica Mountian range http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belasica  where Macedonia, Greece and Bulgaria meet.

A big thank you to the Strumica Hiking club that organized the two day hike. They hauled our (75 people?) tents, sleeping bags and extra stuff up on a tractor. We hiked the 1st half of the trail in a few hours then had the evening to eat, drink, relax and meet new friends. In the morning we rose early for breakfast and the remainder of the hike up to the top to celebrate, turn around and make our way down to the bottom stopping mid way for lunch and pack up our things. They provided the 3 meals as well as having a medical person on hand “just in case”.

This experience is one of my favorite Macedonian experiences. Wonderful people and beautiful scenery. We listened to traditional music, danced and sang, picked wild berries (raspberries, black raspberries, blue berries), tried different home made rakjas, ate fresh made sheep cheese – right there on the mountain so close to the peak and made s’mores for the locals.

The s’mores were a hit (thanks to Austin), they don’t exist here. Marshmallows, if you can find them are a specialty item, very expensive and packaged differently. Graham crackers also do not exist here, they have cracker/biscuits that are close and would actually be really great on a s’more. They do have Hershey’s  chocolate bars. Most were afraid to try, the bravest were eyed suspiciously, waiting for the poisoning to take effect. Yes, some thought we were trying to poison them. My favorite … 2 old guys each with a s’more in their hands, one eating one watching. Eyeing his own s’more and his buddies half eaten one,  after much encouragement, he took a bite. He ended up eating at least two and then helped us make them by handing us the marshmallows to roast and stacking chocolate between the graham crackers for us to make and pass around, with sticky marshmallow cream stuck to his huge grin and whiskery chin. When the chocolate and graham crackers were gone we just roasted the marshmallows and passed the sticks around for people to pull off and eat the toasted sticky treat.

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I could do this again. It was well worth the exhaustion and aching feet and legs. There are so many more stories I could tell, just enjoy the pictures. Thank you Eli, Austin, Christine and Robert. Thank you, Macedonia.

In between a great escape to Greece and the quiet

there was a surprise

I believe it is safe to say that I was given a beautiful gift, one of the best and most thoughtful things anyone has done for me.

There were a lot of people that worked together to make this happen and I want to thank you all. But, the orchestrator, Mark, deserves the applaude, a standing ovation, an award of some sort is certainly due.

The surprise????  Lexi, in Macedonia! For those of you who do not know, Lexi is my 22 year old daughter.

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I hoped and hoped that we would be able to get here here, but deep in my heart I just really thought it was not going to happen because of the cost of the ticket and her ability to get off work. I had no clue that they had this scheme going on. They had been planning it since Feburary! SNEAKS

I knew Mark, his sister and nephew as well, was coming but Lexi was a true surprise. I had absolutely NO idea. I am going to go out on a limb here and share where it starts…. We, the driver and I, are on our way to the airport to pick up Mark, his sister Debby and her son Connor. – side note- The driver is in on this. Mark had contacted Austin, one of my PCV friend here, who gave him the email of my Macdonian friend Eli, my drivers cousin,  who then got a hold of the driver, Done, to say we needed 2 cars because there would be an extra person, the surprise, Lexi. He happens to casually mention that the guy in front of us is a buddy of his, his tone was that of surprise. We get to the border, it is taking FOREVER. They are chatting, I am chatting. Yes, the driver and his buddy are in on the surprise. I am not. I still have no idea. I am under the impression his friend just happens to be heading to the airport to pick someone up too. Hummmm? No. I was just excited to have visitors and not much else was on my mind. The ride was uneventful other then the fact there was WAY to much traffic and ended up being about 10 minutes late. I was not stressing but I bet the drivers were freakin’ a bit. We get to the airport, drive by the passenger pick-up and I do not see them so we do a 2nd drive by and park … I go in, I see Mark, Debby, Connor … we give hugs … they are have their camers out and hands are shaking … I look to my right … a double take … what … really? … LEXI!!!! no wonder they were shaking … hugs and tears and laughs and pictures. You can imagine. I had no idea. A beautiful surprise. A big fat warm fuzzy to last a lifetime.

We had a fabulous visit, they had a great time. Skopje, waterfals, natural springs, Roman baths, monestaries, nunneries, the countryide and the incredible hospitality of the members of my community. This is a trip we will not forget.

I do not have many photos, they do, mine are here (with my hands on my head and heart).

The other Macedonia

I know, not very PC – as in Politically Correct

but it IS confusing. The northern part of Greece is called Macedonia, it says so in my Lonely Planet travel guide to Greece, pages 272-309.

July, the month Americans celebrate their freedom and independence, an interesting time for family and friends to come to this part of the world.

The first part of July I (Robert too, I kind of think I drug him along) met my good friends from Kansas City, Amy and Steven, in Greece. Athens to be exact. Robert and I took the train from Thessalonike to Athens, it really is a nice ride. Amy and Steven should have been there shortly after us but due to a late plane they would not arrive until the next day, and their baggage the following day. I am not going to go on about all the great stuff we did and saw. You can see the pictures. We had a few days in Athens, Ferry to Lesvos – stayed at a great place called Heliotopos where I befriended an african grey parrot, and explored the island on a scooter, flew back to Athens for another day. Both the hotels we stayed at in Athens had rooftop bars with incredible views of the Acropolis.

It was a great time with friends, a true vacation. Thank you Robert, Amy and Steven.

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…. and I forgot to make a mud pie

Last week I had the privilege of working at an archaeological dig, the acropolis of Bylazora. At one time in my life I had the dream of being an archaeologist or paleontologist, searching and digging for buried treasures. Why didn’t I??? Well, I could not see myself spending years on my knees in the hot sun. At the time that is what I envisioned. Now, I know different.

This opportunity came through the efforts of the Texas Foundation for Archaeological and Historical Research www.tfahr.org/BylazoraProject.html in cooperation with the Peoples  Museum of Sveti Nikole.

Please check out their website for great information and details about the history of this archaeological site. A good read wold be the 2010 TFAHR Bylazora Excavation Publication. I know I could not do justice in describing the details. Their website has so much valuable information about the Foundation itself, expeditions they are and have been involved in, their International Field School, pottery (shapes, working with and drawing) and the fine details of this ancient Paionian site of Bylazora in Ovče Pole http://www.tfahr.org/dig2011.html

If you want a general idea about the period of the site read about King Philip II, Alexander the Great, or Iliad. I believe we were working in an area and finding artifacts dating back into the Iron Age as well, but that is speculation???

My Wednesday, Thursday and Friday looked like this –  wake at 4ish, grab a quick bite to eat, swallow some coffee, gather my gear for the day (hat, sunscreen, breakfast, water) and meet the van down the street at 4:45 to join the working crew. We pick up a few of the locals on the way out to the site. By 5:00 we are hiking up the hill to the main site. As soon as we arrive tools are gathered, directions given and the fun begins! As for the bulk of the day you can see for yourself in the pictures. We took about a 30 minute breakfast break at 8ish and “no new dirt” was announced at 11:45ish when it was time to start cleaning up. I do think it ironic that that entails sweeping the floors clean, dirt floors. But, it works, and it’s amazingly tidy when done. I had the opportunity learn the art of shoveling and throwing dirt, hauling wheel barrows, picking, hoeing, troweling, tidying up the corners, identifying special from non-special pieces of pattery. There is a knack to all of it, I am only just a beginner.

I have to be clear about this … I did not discover any fine finds, but had the privilege of helping work in and around some pretty nifty discoveries (well, at least nifty and cool to me).

The working crew was made up of the Project Directors and numerous volunteers from around the globe: US, Macedonia, England, Australia, Serbia, Poland, France. Many of the volunteers have worked with the  foundation for years.

I believe this has been my most rewarding and memorable experience here in Macedonia. Rock climbing is a very close second. I want to thank Natty for arranging this opportunity and allowing PCV’s to crash at his place also a special thank you to Gail and Ana for your guidance and allowing me to learn and play in your trench.

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I have tried to put these pictures in some sort of order or grouping.

АЛПИНИСТИЧКИ ДОМ

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Pictures from this last weekend. It was quiet, just Christine and I doing some painting, relaxing and enjoying a fire. It is really a nice feeling. Working on my existential self, standing quiet, contemplating the sound of the water, song of the birds, breeze ruffling my clothes, smell of the linden trees … I am here in Macedonia. Experiencing.

Tomorrow I am off to help on an archaeological dig in Sveti Nikole, The Bylazora Project.

ROCK CLIMBING

I have never climbed a rock so big I needed a rope. I went rock climbing for the first time last weekend. That could be addicting. Pilav Tepe is just a little north outside of Radovich.

A friend and fellow PCV is working with a couple groups to offer a place for mountain biking, rock climbing and hiking, and I get to help! We are going to be doing some work and play weekends spending some time getting the mountain house ready for visitors. This weekend we will be working on a mural for one of the inside walls … keep watching for updates. I will continue to add more pictures.

Yes, we hiked up to the white cross on the rock, the rock climbing is down below the cross. It was great to spend some time outdoors, casual, work and play, and a bonfire in the evening.

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Celebratory pizza with grade V

We went to Park. They have the best pizza in Macedonia … so they say. I do not have enough experience to testify. But, it is good!

The students dressed in their party clothes and were on their best behavior to show appreciation and say goodbye to their 5th grade teachers. Present was the mayor, director of the school, each classroom teacher, the librarian, my counterpart and I. Next year they will still be at the same school but will have new homeroom teachers. 

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It was great to watch the students dance and sing to traditional music.

 

nocino … orahovica … oreovka

young walnuts … sugar … sun

This appears to be like nocino без alcohol and spices. I will add it to rakija when it is done. I am not sure what it is called here, maybe my Macedonian friends can comment?

Fill jar with young walnuts, fill more with sugar, screw lid on very tight, put in sun. Randomly shake and add more sugar as the days go by. 40 days? We shall see. They were started June 1, the most progressed picture was yesterday.

Totally Random

Kind of like my last few weeks.

Absolutely no more chocolates for the elderly!

One of these days I will make it all the way up that damn mountain.

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